Yemen- Day 1

Oct 11, 2007
I woke up this morning feeling a wave of dread wash over me. It's not what you might think. No, not fear of traveling to an Arab country notorious for kidnapping of foreigners (sorry, mom, did I forget to mention that?). It's dread of traveling alone. Again. Truly, I'd rather stay in boring, soul-stifling Saudi Arabia.

For several weeks, the distinct possibility loomed that I could not go to Yemen, as both my Iqama and multiple entry needed renewal. I secretly hoped I could use that excuse for staying home. I still have my pride, after all. God forbid that I choose something boring over an adventure, as if I'm afraid of anything. LuAnne is fearless. How ironic that I have no fear of kidnapping, but fear being alone, like the elephant afraid of the mouse.

In a moment of weakness before purchasing my ticket, I emailed Nick to confess my fears, knowing that he would tell it to me straight, which he did. "Get off your fat arse and go!" he scolded. Fine! However, honestly would rather have something traumatic happen (and survive in tact) than have a normal, touristy, sightseeing trip and come back with pretty pictures. If I must travel alone, then it must include an adventure. (Mom's comment: "Must an adventure mean it's dangerous?" Of course. That's how twisted I am.)

I have taken my freestyle mode of travel to new heights this time. I skimmed through a few sections of the Lonely Planet guide on Yemen back in April when Nick suggested we travel there together this Eid break. I also joined a LP web forum on females traveling alone in Yemen. And...that's it. Until last night. It occurred to me that maybe I should have a first night in Sanaa booked, considering it's not only a weekend, but also the beginning of Eid vacation. So, the extent of my preparation is an email sent (but no confirmation) to reserve a room, and material to read on my way there.

It will all work out. Worst case scenario, I spend the week in the ancient town of Sanaa. There's nothing dreadful about that.

Short commercial break....
The first two marvels of the trip happened at the Bahrain airport when I was asked out on a date by a total stranger...and accepted!

Back to Yemen...
OK, OK. So you want to know why I accepted a date and what I know about him? Dave, Aramco writer, tall, long gray hair pulled back into a pony-tail, dressed as grungy-backpacker, single and heterosexual. (Yes, I asked, "Are you single and heterosexual?" Really, I did...after he asked me out and before I knew his name.) What else? He told me I was pretty and he never is this bold (even came back to mention that point again), but if I was traveling to Yemen alone, then I was the kind of girl he wanted to know. Finally, a man who finds my supposed bravery attractive. The one negative I gathered from the two-minute conversation: he has lived in Saudi for 18 years. Clearly this is a serious flaw. The date, or dates...oh dear, I'm already confused...area Halloween costume ball (I think that was a general invite, not a date) and a Thanksgiving formal dance at the consulate. He's about double my height, so that should be interesting.

Now, back to Yemen...


I arrived in Sanaa, the capital of Yemen, about3 hours late due to plane problems in Bahrain. As the plane touched down, I witnessed something I have never seen before: half of the passengers - all men and most likely Yemeni - got up, retrieved their luggage from the overhead bins, and filled the isles...all before the plan even slowed down to a crawl. All the while, the announcement droned on in Arabic and English insisting that everyone stay seated until the plane came to a complete stop. I mention this only because it now seems a pre-curser to what I will experience here in Yemen - anarchy. On the roads. In the grocery store. And that was in just four hours.

The first bit of anarchy is the driving. Mind you, I grew up in the Philippines where insane driving is legendary but normal to me. Manila driving is the model of discipline compared to here. First, my taxi driver weaved through alleys in the old town that literally extended a few inches on either side of the car. The manager of the hotel (Muhammad) gave me a ride (twice) into the "new" section just outside the old town where the driving insanity caused me to burst into uncontrollable giggling and laughing, which put a big grin on Muhammad's face. The most astonishing moment came in a grid-lock where about 15 cars decided they would turn around in bumper to bumper traffic to head the opposite direction...and they did it!

The second bit of anarchy took place in the supermarket checkout "line" (and I use this word in the loosest sense). There was a tiny semblance of a line, but in the same manner as their driving, they pushed their carts into the tiniest crevices between carts, creating multiple lines sprouting off lines.

And now, the most remarkable bit of all: no one seemed bothered. No one shouted at anyone - not in the grocery line or on the road. (Although, I must add here that when Yemeni speak to each other, their voices take on a guttural quality and they sound like they are shouting.)

The most surprising difference between Yemen and other countries on the peninsula is its 3rd world quality. Without exception, all the other countries are modern and somewhat clean. Yemen is not, or at least Sanaa isn't. Think trash everywhere, chaos, old and decaying, new and decaying.